Viña del Mar

 Once we were officially settled into the new apartment, we had a few weeks to explore before the boys started school on March 4th. However, the Adventure Van was still being worked on (A/C and seatbelts), so we decided to visit a place that wouldn't have been Adventure Van compatible. It was also pretty hot in Santiago (and by hot, I mean 90s), but with no A/C in the new apartment, it felt very hot. So we decided to take a trip to the ocean, specifically Viña del Mar, which is just under two hours away. 

Viña del Mar would not have been a good place for the Adventure Van for a couple of reasons. One, it's pretty packed with tourists and beach goers, with the real estate along the beach being taken up by high rises. Imagine San Diego meets the Conchas Chinas hills of Puerto Vallarta, MX. There would not have been a good place to camp close to the beach. Lately it's also been known to have a higher crime rate with car jackings on the rise. We also wanted to to a day trip to Valparaiso, its sister city, while we were there, and Valparaiso is like San Francisco, cute, artsy, super duper hilly, and crowded. Again, not Adventure Van compatible. Since the Lady was in the shop anyways, we decided to visit, but to travel a different way. Bus! There are direct and very comfortable giant buses that go from Santiago (either Central Station or Pajaritos) direct to both Viña del Mar and Valparaiso. They are safe, very comfortable, with wifi, bathrooms, outlets, etc., and allowed us to take in the scenery. To get to the coast, you have to pass through a couple valleys where there were alot of wineries. Apparently, this is where the lovely Chilean whites come from. But it looked alot like Colorado, very dry and scrubby, except for farms that had clearly been irrigated. The boys loved the giant bus.

We actually stayed at Reñaca Beach (sector 5), because our research showed there was beach volleyball at this location, and Drew wanted to scope out the scene, no surprises there. There is actually another section of beach that has beach volleyball as well, Playa de Deportes, (literally Sports Beach) which is on the north end of the main Las Salinas beach in Viña del Mar. But, due to the geography, there wasn't lodging super close to that section of beach, so we chose Reñaca instead knowing we could literally see the courts from our Airbnb. It was actually the perfect spot for us. We stayed at an Airbnb one road off the beach, but because of the hills, we had a fantastic view. We did have to climb 201 stairs to get down to the beach though. Good workout! The inside of the Airbnb was not spectacular, everything was old and had that oceany, musty smell. But, for paying $115/night for two bedrooms, it seems like a good deal. Imagine what you'd have to pay in San Diego for this kind of view?!?

This is on the Pacific Ocean, and the water is VERY cold, like 65 degrees tops. This is because of the Humboldt Current which sweeps water from Antartica up the western coast of South America. Don't be impressed, I had to google this, but for another reason you'll see below. It meant I never got in the water above my knees. It was actually very interesting, they had very attentive life guards at Reñaca Beach, and they would not allow anyone to get in beyond hip level. I'm not sure if this is because of rip tides (probably, as there were warning flags on the beach showing either red or green, and it was red every day we were there). Maybe it was also because of how cold the water is. Without a good wetsuit, swimming because pretty difficult pretty fast at those temps, at least that's what I've heard, jajaja. The beach also had a very aggressive break right on the shore, so there wasn't alot of wiggle room before you got pummeled. But Drew and the boys had fun splashing around.

We had some great sunsets from our Airbnb porch. 

The cold water also created a marine fog layer most mornings that wouldn't burn off until 2 or 3 in the afternoon. Because of this, the beach would be dead all morning, and wouldn't really get busy until literally 2 or 3 when the sun came out. Then it stayed busy until sunset. I was digging the cooler temps. Highs in the 70s, lows in the 50s. Felt nice to wear long sleeves sometimes for a change. And the foggy mornings actually worked in our favor as we could go to the beach and the boys could dig, but Emerson, poor, pale Emerson, wasn't a significant burn risk until the afternoon. Made my job as keeper of the sunscreen much easier. The boys couldn't get enough of digging. So many projects to be had.

I was researching the Humboldt Current because it brings nutrients and provides ideal conditions for oysters to grow off the coast of Chile, and we got to try them for the first time! We found a little seafood market in town that will sell them to you shucked and with a few simple condiments, and we ate them right then and there. $0.50/oyster. Score. They were delicious. Briny, small, just how I like them. Emerson was a huge fan. Avery not so much. Thumb down from him. But big thumbs up from everyone else.